Cookbooks promising quick meals put to test

Most recipes go from page to table in just 30 minutes

By Janet K. Keeler and Laura Reiley
St. Petersburg Times

Published on Wednesday, Mar 05, 2008

Thirty minutes. There's something magical about that number and preparing dinner. Anything less and we might as well be racing through the drive-through. Anything more and, well, we call for takeout.

Rachael Ray did not invent the 30-minute meal, but she built a multimillion-dollar empire on the notion that a good meal is no more than 1,800 seconds away. Hundreds of cookbooks promise half-hour meals.

They promise, but do they deliver?

To find out, we put four cookbooks to the test and in general were pleased with the results. Ground rules were simple: The only work that could be done to prepare was reading the recipe and shopping. With timers set for 30 minutes, we began chopping, peeling, measuring and cooking.

Three of the four books passed and one failed, though only in the time category. The recipe from Ray's Just in Time came in at about 45 minutes. And we were a panting mess from the overzealous recipe. But with time expectations dialed back, Florentine Mac and Cheese with Roasted Chicken Sausage Meatballs is worth the effort.

Some of the cookbooks required us to come up with accompaniments to make a complete meal. We took points off for no suggestions.

What became clear as we perused the cookbooks and then prepared the recipes was that with planning and a well-stocked pantry, a home-cooked meal is doable in short order.

But everybody needs a little inspiration. These books provided that.

• Just in Time: All New 30-Minute Meals Plus Super-Fast 15-Minute Meals and Slow-It-Down 60-Minute Meals, by Rachael Ray (Potter, 2007, $19.95).

In her 19th book, Rachael Ray offers tick-tock recipes for more and less than 30 minutes, too, but you'll have to be a speed demon to get them done in that amount of time.

Ray fancies close-to-scratch cooking, so there aren't many convenience items. You'll get rave reviews from the dishes you make — her recipes are well-tested and dependable — but be prepared to wash a lot of pots and pans afterward.

FLORENTINE MAC AND CHEESE
AND ROAST CHICKEN
SAUSAGE MEATBALLS
Salt
1 lb. cavatappi (or other short, hollow pasta, such as petite penne)
11/2 lbs. ground chicken
Black pepper
2 to 3 fresh rosemary sprigs, stripped and finely chopped
2 tsp. fennel seeds
3 garlic cloves, grated
1 tsp. red pepper flakes
1 cup ricotta cheese
11/2 cups grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1 egg
1/2 to 3/4 cup bread crumbs
3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
3 tbsp. butter
2 tbsp. all-purpose flour
1 cup chicken stock
1 cup whole milk
1/8 tsp. grated nutmeg
2 (10-oz.) boxes chopped frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed dry

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Place a large pot of salted water on to boil. When it boils, cook the pasta al dente according to package instructions.

While the water is coming to a boil, in a large mixing bowl combine the chicken, salt and pepper, rosemary, fennel seeds, garlic, red pepper flakes, ricotta cheese, 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano, the egg and the bread crumbs. If the mixture is too wet, add another handful of bread crumbs. Form 8 large balls, 3 to 4 inches in diameter.

Lightly coat a baking sheet with olive oil and place the meatballs on the sheet and sprinkle with olive oil. Roast for 17 to 18 minutes, or until the juices run clear. (The time might be more like 20.)

While the meatballs roast, melt the butter in a medium sauce pot over medium heat. Whisk in the flour, cook for 1 minute, then whisk in the stock and milk. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and cook for 5 to 6 minutes to thicken. Stir in the remaining cup of grated Parmigiano and reduce the heat to the lowest setting.

Add the spinach to the white sauce, separating the clumps. Mix thoroughly.

Drain the pasta and place in a large bowl. Pour the spinach sauce over the pasta and toss to combine.

Adjust the seasonings. Serve the Florentine Mac and Cheese topped with 2 meatballs per serving.

Serves 4.

Time it took: 45 minutes.

What worked: The recipe. We followed it nearly to the letter (we used all but about 2 cups of the cooked pasta and added cheese to the sauce) and the dish was delicious. Plus, it's a one-dish meal.

What didn't work: Even an experienced cook will have trouble making this in 30 minutes. The large meatballs took 20 minutes to roast, plus there are some time-consuming steps that could be shortened. (Grate the garlic cloves? Whack 'em to remove the peel and run them through the press.) Give yourself an hour and you'll enjoy the meal rather than racing to the table out of breath.
•
• Fast & Fit: 150 Quick & Healthy Everyday Recipes Ready in Just 30 Minutes or Less by Ellen Haas (Heatherleigh Press, 2007, $16.95).

Don't judge this book by its pages. Despite including recipes from Alice Waters, Charlie Trotter, Eric Ripert and Gale Gand, Fast & Fit is so lackluster-looking that it appears unfinished.

Plus, the 30-minute claim on the front is misleading. Yes, many recipes can be made in half an hour, but one dish does not a meal make. Full meal suggestions in the back include preparation time, and most are 40 minutes or more.

On the plus side, this is a good cookbook for beginners, especially those who want to cook more healthfully. The solid recipes represent a variety of cuisines.

SHRIMP WITH CANNELLINI
BEANS AND ROSEMARY
11/2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced
3 tbsp. chopped fresh, flat-leaf parsley
2 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary or sage
1 lb. peeled shrimp
2 cups canned cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/2 cup low-sodium chicken broth, fish broth or bottled clam broth

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large nonstick skillet. Add the garlic, 2 tablespoons of the parsley and the rosemary.

Cook over medium heat until fragrant but not brown, about 1 minute.

Stir in the shrimp, beans, salt and pepper. Cook for 2 minutes. Add the broth and simmer until the shrimp are firm, pink and cooked, 2 to 3 minutes more.

Correct the seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle remaining olive oil over shrimp and beans, sprinkle with the remaining parsley and serve immediately.

Serves 2 to 3.

CHICKEN BREAST WITH SPICY
ZUCCHINI AND SNAP PEAS
2 large boneless, skinless chicken breasts
4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
1 cup snap peas, trimmed
6 tbsp. water
1/2 red onion, thinly sliced
1/2 medium zucchini, quartered lengthwise, then cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices
1 ripe plum tomato, diced
1/8 tsp. togarashi (or cayenne, see note)
Juice of 1/2 lemon

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Pound the chicken breasts with a meat mallet to flatten slightly. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat in a nonstick saute pan. Season chicken on both sides, add to the pan and gently brown on both sides, about 2 minutes per side.

Transfer chicken to a baking sheet and let finish cooking in the oven, 7 to 9 minutes, or until cooked through but still juicy.

Meanwhile, place snap peas and water in the saute pan, cover and cook 2 minutes. Remove lid and continue to cook until water evaporates. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and onions to the pan and saute 2 minutes. Add zucchini and saute 1 to 2 minutes, until almost tender. Add the tomato, togarashi or cayenne, salt and pepper and cook 1 more minute.

Adjust seasoning, check chicken for doneness (slice into one slightly). When finished cooking, place chicken breasts in the center of two plates, top with the vegetables, squeeze lemon juice over all and serve.

Serves 2.

Note: Togarashi is a Japanese spice mix made of Thai chilies, orange zest, white and black sesame seeds, fennel seeds and hemp. You can find it at Asian markets, sometimes called shichimi togarashi.

Time it took: 25 minutes.

What worked: It's pretty, it's wholesome, it's super easy with lots of room for improvisation. Add a handful of olives or capers, or top the dish with toasted pine nuts or lemon zest. The togarashi gives it a slightly exotic flavor, with just a kick of heat.

What didn't work: Forget pounding the chicken breasts, and I don't think steaming the snap peas is necessary. I'd toss them in, give them a minute, then proceed with the onions, etc. It's nice when they still have a little snap. For the dishwasher in your life, lining the baking sheet with foil means one less thing to wash at meal's end. Otherwise, it's instant dinner, and all in one pan — not bad.

Thirty minutes. There's something magical about that number and preparing dinner. Anything less and we might as well be racing through the drive-through. Anything more and, well, we call for takeout.

Rachael Ray did not invent the 30-minute meal, but she built a multimillion-dollar empire on the notion that a good meal is no more than 1,800 seconds away. Hundreds of cookbooks promise half-hour meals.

They promise, but do they deliver?

To find out, we put four cookbooks to the test and in general were pleased with the results. Ground rules were simple: The only work that could be done to prepare was reading the recipe and shopping. With timers set for 30 minutes, we began chopping, peeling, measuring and cooking.

Three of the four books passed and one failed, though only in the time category. The recipe from Ray's Just in Time came in at about 45 minutes. And we were a panting mess from the overzealous recipe. But with time expectations dialed back, Florentine Mac and Cheese with Roasted Chicken Sausage Meatballs is worth the effort.

Some of the cookbooks required us to come up with accompaniments to make a complete meal. We took points off for no suggestions.

What became clear as we perused the cookbooks and then prepared the recipes was that with planning and a well-stocked pantry, a home-cooked meal is doable in short order.

But everybody needs a little inspiration. These books provided that.

• Just in Time: All New 30-Minute Meals Plus Super-Fast 15-Minute Meals and Slow-It-Down 60-Minute Meals, by Rachael Ray (Potter, 2007, $19.95).

In her 19th book, Rachael Ray offers tick-tock recipes for more and less than 30 minutes, too, but you'll have to be a speed demon to get them done in that amount of time.

Ray fancies close-to-scratch cooking, so there aren't many convenience items. You'll get rave reviews from the dishes you make — her recipes are well-tested and dependable — but be prepared to wash a lot of pots and pans afterward.